It seems like you have a pretty good grasp of what is going on inside the machine if you can swap out the power supply so I’m not sure how much help I can offer in regard to repairing it. About the best I can do is try and help localize the problem by offering diagnostic suggestions but that’s probably not going to be much use to you.

Since you seem comfortable working inside the box you might want to hit Ebay and take a look at the PoS3 gallery. I saw quite a few working machines with bad BRDs that were selling for $20 or $30. You could buy one of those and swap out the BRD from the brick and save yourself upwards of $50.

My personal opinion is that sending it to Sony is a waste of money. You’re paying half the price of a new machine and only getting a 90 day warranty. When you add in the fact they are rumored to be salvaging parts from bricked machines it doesn’t make sense to pay a premium price for a repair that’s questionable.

A local repair place isn’t going to be much better. Most will charge around $100 to diagnose and repair just about any PoS3 issue as long as the system isn’t completely trashed. There are two questoins you need to ask before you can decide if it is worth the money. Are they installing new parts and what is the warranty?

In my opinion the best option is taking the bricked machine to Game Stop, getting a $50.00 credit, and buying a new machine. You might get more than $50.00 depending on the type of brick you trade in. My personal opinion is it is better to spend $250 ($300 less trade in) for a new machine with a year warranty than $150 for something that could crap out in 3 months. Some places offer extended warranties which I would definately recommend.

If I can offer any assistance or insight let me know.

Hmm… can they stick to one Guybrush please?

Thanks for the update. I read about some upcoming news. Guess next thing after all revamps are done (and MI 4 is condemned not MI game) is a full sequel

don’t take it as expert judgement, but I doubt it’s the problem then, after comparing it to mine. I hear the fan for less than second at startup, then it’s quite, probably cause there isn’t any heavy task it’s doing.

DrMahbob: Why not? We’ll all follow you later on when we realize Google is the DEVIL :P

You have to safe guard certain details of your information and you have to pick and choose what you put online!

According to Sony the problem has been fixed by the date change and you should ensure that your system date indicates March 4 or later (link).

http://www.t3.com/news/ps3-bug-is-now-fixed-says-sony?=43905

If you want to search for more information it is called the 8001050F error. That will get you more hits than “PSN glitch.”

Since you posted two days after this suppposedly fixed itself, it sounds like the above isn’t going to be much use to you. The problem is Sony has consistently demonstrated that they will not stand behind their product so even if this was caused by their faulty clock issues they won’t admit it much less fix it for free.

When you turn on the machine do you get any response or do you get a blank screen? In other words, does the OS seem to be loading and running or do you have a brick that beeps?

Sorry I haven’t had my PS3 on for few days so I magically survived the glitch

PoS3/40 with a manufacture date of September 2007

Brilliant page! I felt sure that none of the techniques toward the top of this page would work on my PS3 as I’d tried holding the start button down etc a few times before with no luck.

I thought I’d give it one last try using the technique where you hold down both the start and eject buttons and taa-daa! the System Restore Screen appeared. I chose selection 3 and a few minutes later my PS3 was back to life – thanks!

So just to re-cap, here’s what I did:

1) Switched the PS3 on from the back – Red standby light shows.

2) Held “start” and “eject” buttons down – PS3 beeped once… after a few seconds beeped once again… and then after a few more seconds beeped twice, at which point I release my fingers from the buttons.

3) It then asked me to connect the controller with a USB cable (which I already had connected, so just pressed the PS button on the controller to activate it.)

4) The System Restore Screen then came up – I selected option 3.

Good luck to everyone who has this problem – and remember – keep trying – it took me many many attempts before I got the System Restore Screen to show.

MBH: Guess we should honor the code and spam our selves then huh?